I was walking my puppy outside the local Petsmart one day last week when a lady with a Westie came up and asked what kind of dog Shannon was. I replied, "Border Terrier" at which point she remarked that "there was a gentleman she saw most days walking two or three Borders at Harvey Bear Park". I replied that I thought it was me! "Oh, yes!", she exclaimed. "I didn't recognize you without the cap and sunglasses!". That has happened several times now so I guess I am becoming a "fixture" at the park! At least they are still referring to me as a "gentleman"!
We spent a few minutes talking dogs when another younger lady walked up. "Is that a Border Terrier?" she asked. "Sure is", I replied. "How do you know about BTs?" It turned out her mom owned two and was showing them in conformation. I asked who that might be and had to smile when she told me her mom was a lady I know quite well and whose dogs I have groomed occasionally in the past! I had never met the daughter before and we all laughed at how small a world it was!
Tuesday, November 30, 2010
Friday, September 24, 2010
What Breeders REALLY Do!
Ever wonder if you wanted to breed a dog and what a breeder goes through? I'd bred dogs before but not Border Terriers. And not in the last 25 years or so! So I boned up about breeding and whelping and all the possible problems you might encounter. I read books, attended seminars and watched DVDs. Come the big day I was as prepared as I could be. But the whelping was the easy part, and, in retrospect, maybe not the most important part. Sure, you need to get the pups out and everyone stable and nursing. The first week is nerve racking. Dewclaw removal can be traumatic. If someone gets sick, what should you do now? But I believe that the real work begins with the rearing and socialization that starts around week four.
I have seen Borders that bark at just about everything and everyone; there are many web sites that say BTs are "barky". I have even seen "aggressive" BTs. Thus I was determined to do everything I possibly could to socialize and introduce my pups to the world as best as possible.
I made a list and started checking things off:
Pee and poop on papers. Intro them to crates. Don't jump up when I approach; calmly (somewhat) sit while I come closer.
This is your food- enjoy it, but do not play IN it (too much!).
This is a broom; you do NOT eat it or chase it! Here's what a vacuum cleaner sounds like and the doorbell, the telephone and the microwave.
Come on out and watch TV with us (in your crates) and BTW, please behave; i.e do NOT cry and whine. I am impervious (I hope!) to that and will not let you out until you behave.
This is how to eat treats from my hand; you do NOT go into my pockets yourself even if I am laying down next to you! And you do not jump up and put your teeth anywhere near me, especially on my ears or face!
This is what a hardwood floor feels like, while this other thing is carpet. Yes, its soft! No, you don't get to pee here either! This is what grass feels like underfoot; isn't that neat? This is sunshine and THAT is your shadow!!! Yes, it is following you!
This is how we ride in the car. This is a vet and her office- no, you don't treat her like a sibling! Yes, she has some treats too, but you have to earn them!
This is the grooming and show table. Yes, that "other" dog there IS YOU- that is a mirror!
This is a collar and this is a leash. We go to nifty places when these come out! No, the collar does NOT go in your mouth and you do not get to EAT the leash!
This may taste terrible but it's necessary. Please "Enjoy!" Would you rather have worms? Here, have a treat! See? I'm not SO BAD!
Oops, we just poo'ed off the papers. Too bad! Now let's go outside and see if you have anything else to do. WAIT! Don't STEP in it! Let ME clean it up!
This neat, new toy is a cardboard box! See I have put some holes in it so you can play house and hide 'n'seek! And THIS is a PVC pipe! (Think Earthdog!) No, you do not EAT the box!
These are the "older" dogs. Treat them with SOME respect, please. That is, if you value your lives! Though they have seen ALL this before, (and done it themselves), even their patience is limited.
And these are "little people" - they are the SAME AS ME. Don't ever forget that, even if they forget who you are and how to treat you correctly.
When all that (and more) is done, then you can start to believe that you have prepared your puppies for their new homes. And maybe, just maybe, you have started down the road to becoming a true breeder!
I have seen Borders that bark at just about everything and everyone; there are many web sites that say BTs are "barky". I have even seen "aggressive" BTs. Thus I was determined to do everything I possibly could to socialize and introduce my pups to the world as best as possible.
I made a list and started checking things off:
Pee and poop on papers. Intro them to crates. Don't jump up when I approach; calmly (somewhat) sit while I come closer.
This is your food- enjoy it, but do not play IN it (too much!).
This is a broom; you do NOT eat it or chase it! Here's what a vacuum cleaner sounds like and the doorbell, the telephone and the microwave.
Come on out and watch TV with us (in your crates) and BTW, please behave; i.e do NOT cry and whine. I am impervious (I hope!) to that and will not let you out until you behave.
This is how to eat treats from my hand; you do NOT go into my pockets yourself even if I am laying down next to you! And you do not jump up and put your teeth anywhere near me, especially on my ears or face!
This is what a hardwood floor feels like, while this other thing is carpet. Yes, its soft! No, you don't get to pee here either! This is what grass feels like underfoot; isn't that neat? This is sunshine and THAT is your shadow!!! Yes, it is following you!
This is how we ride in the car. This is a vet and her office- no, you don't treat her like a sibling! Yes, she has some treats too, but you have to earn them!
This is the grooming and show table. Yes, that "other" dog there IS YOU- that is a mirror!
This is a collar and this is a leash. We go to nifty places when these come out! No, the collar does NOT go in your mouth and you do not get to EAT the leash!
This may taste terrible but it's necessary. Please "Enjoy!" Would you rather have worms? Here, have a treat! See? I'm not SO BAD!
Oops, we just poo'ed off the papers. Too bad! Now let's go outside and see if you have anything else to do. WAIT! Don't STEP in it! Let ME clean it up!
This neat, new toy is a cardboard box! See I have put some holes in it so you can play house and hide 'n'seek! And THIS is a PVC pipe! (Think Earthdog!) No, you do not EAT the box!
These are the "older" dogs. Treat them with SOME respect, please. That is, if you value your lives! Though they have seen ALL this before, (and done it themselves), even their patience is limited.
And these are "little people" - they are the SAME AS ME. Don't ever forget that, even if they forget who you are and how to treat you correctly.
When all that (and more) is done, then you can start to believe that you have prepared your puppies for their new homes. And maybe, just maybe, you have started down the road to becoming a true breeder!
Thursday, September 16, 2010
Carbohydrates, Grains and Your Dog's Diet
I wrote this article as part of a series on dog nutrition for our local club newsletter. I will post more from this series later.
Last time, we talked about reading parts of the label on dog food packages and we casually referred to carbohydrates as something whose amounts in food can sneak up on you. Let’s examine how carbs and grains pertain your dog’s diet.
First of all, it’s important to recognize that the importance of carbohydrates in the canine diet is still widely debated. Carbs are almost impossible to avoid even in home-prepared foods and there are situations where carbs have been thought to provide an advantage to the dog(pregnant and lactating bitches for example). Nearly all dog food contains some carbohydrates with dry foods (kibble) possessing the most, on average. As we stated last time, kibble needs binding agents, and grains and plant-based food derivatives fill this requirement nicely. When you use grains, starches and plant-based ingredients, you get carbohydrates galore. Even in “wet” foods (canned) there are typically 15% to 20 % carbohydrates depending on whether the food is grain-free or not, and which types of grain or starch it utilizes.
Second, while dogs do not need carbohydrates in their diet, they do need sources of glucose (which the body converts to glycogen) to fuel their energy requirements. If a dog had a zero-carbohydrate diet, they would have to get the glucose needed from food proteins or fats (from the glycerol in fat). If the glucose in the diet is insufficient to meet the energy needs of the dog, their bodies will “steal” glucose from amino acids in proteins in lieu of building muscle or bone. Minimizing amino acid conversion is why lactating bitches and puppies should have some carbohydrates in their diets.
“Feeding Your Dog for Life” (Diane Morgan, 2002) gives four uses for carbs in a dog’s diet. Ominously the third reason listed is to create a store of glycogen but excess ends up being converted to fat. It is that last phrase that unfortunately is the most common result of high carb diets. Note that proteins and fats can also perform the four things in a dog's diet just as well as carbs. (Also remember that proteins and carbs have the eaxact same caloric content- 4 calories per gram). Another use for carbs in dog food is as an inexpensive protein source. The book “K9 Kitchen” (Monica Segal, 2002) lists several grains along with their carbohydrate, protein and mineral content. Most grains possess 2% to 4 % protein and 20% to 30% carbohydrate. Since grains are cheap relative to meat and fish, and since dry foods need binding agents anyway, plant-based foods are an inexpensive way to augment the protein content of a food while providing teh binding agents necessary for it's production. Lastly, cheap foods use sugars to improve taste; something that all owners should try to minimize. Even good, highly rated foods sometimes use beet pulp and other plant sources as a binder. Others use berries and fruits as a source of anti-oxidants (this is GOOD!- albeit these are sugar rich). And low-end foods utilize a lot of corn which contains significant sugars. If a dog food contains 40% or more carbohydrate (from grains and sugars), the amount of glucose the dog could potentially derive from that much carbohydrate far exceeds their daily need. Thus the excess carbohydrate is turned to fat. Interestingly, if the protein content of a food far exceeds the needs of the dog, the excess can be removed from the body through urination although at some strain on the kidneys.
Grains are problematical because many dogs have allergies to certain grains. Wheat and corn are the most common allergens. Grains must be cooked or processed to be digested by the dog. Well, I say that tongue in cheek because my dogs eat the raw wheat kernels from the horse hay that falls on the driveways here. They enjoy the crunchiness I guess! Mostly the grain kernels pass right through undigested but they must get some carbs from eating the raw grain because their weight is harder to control when they eat a lot of grain kernels!
Another issue with grains is that some grains bind certain minerals and prevent their assimilation. Grains, like carbs, are difficult to avoid in food, although today there are more “grain-free” foods available. However, many of these foods include other starches like potatoes and tapioca. Starches, like grains, must be cooked for a dog to assimilate them and they are less digestible than grains like rice and corn. By the way, rice is the most digestible of the common grains and is one reason why a “bland” diet (chicken broth and rice- with their respective protein and glucose sources) is often used to feed a dog with an upset digestive system.
I have had good success in managing my dogs’ weight (apart from the hay issue above!) with daily exercise and diets that minimize carbs and grain. Their diets consist of about 25% (by weight- possibly 40% by kilocalories of energy provided) high-quality, grain-free, low-carb kibble. Raw and cooked protein sources such as meat, green tripe, fish and chicken make up the remainder of my dogs’ diets.
Last time, we talked about reading parts of the label on dog food packages and we casually referred to carbohydrates as something whose amounts in food can sneak up on you. Let’s examine how carbs and grains pertain your dog’s diet.
First of all, it’s important to recognize that the importance of carbohydrates in the canine diet is still widely debated. Carbs are almost impossible to avoid even in home-prepared foods and there are situations where carbs have been thought to provide an advantage to the dog(pregnant and lactating bitches for example). Nearly all dog food contains some carbohydrates with dry foods (kibble) possessing the most, on average. As we stated last time, kibble needs binding agents, and grains and plant-based food derivatives fill this requirement nicely. When you use grains, starches and plant-based ingredients, you get carbohydrates galore. Even in “wet” foods (canned) there are typically 15% to 20 % carbohydrates depending on whether the food is grain-free or not, and which types of grain or starch it utilizes.
Second, while dogs do not need carbohydrates in their diet, they do need sources of glucose (which the body converts to glycogen) to fuel their energy requirements. If a dog had a zero-carbohydrate diet, they would have to get the glucose needed from food proteins or fats (from the glycerol in fat). If the glucose in the diet is insufficient to meet the energy needs of the dog, their bodies will “steal” glucose from amino acids in proteins in lieu of building muscle or bone. Minimizing amino acid conversion is why lactating bitches and puppies should have some carbohydrates in their diets.
“Feeding Your Dog for Life” (Diane Morgan, 2002) gives four uses for carbs in a dog’s diet. Ominously the third reason listed is to create a store of glycogen but excess ends up being converted to fat. It is that last phrase that unfortunately is the most common result of high carb diets. Note that proteins and fats can also perform the four things in a dog's diet just as well as carbs. (Also remember that proteins and carbs have the eaxact same caloric content- 4 calories per gram). Another use for carbs in dog food is as an inexpensive protein source. The book “K9 Kitchen” (Monica Segal, 2002) lists several grains along with their carbohydrate, protein and mineral content. Most grains possess 2% to 4 % protein and 20% to 30% carbohydrate. Since grains are cheap relative to meat and fish, and since dry foods need binding agents anyway, plant-based foods are an inexpensive way to augment the protein content of a food while providing teh binding agents necessary for it's production. Lastly, cheap foods use sugars to improve taste; something that all owners should try to minimize. Even good, highly rated foods sometimes use beet pulp and other plant sources as a binder. Others use berries and fruits as a source of anti-oxidants (this is GOOD!- albeit these are sugar rich). And low-end foods utilize a lot of corn which contains significant sugars. If a dog food contains 40% or more carbohydrate (from grains and sugars), the amount of glucose the dog could potentially derive from that much carbohydrate far exceeds their daily need. Thus the excess carbohydrate is turned to fat. Interestingly, if the protein content of a food far exceeds the needs of the dog, the excess can be removed from the body through urination although at some strain on the kidneys.
Grains are problematical because many dogs have allergies to certain grains. Wheat and corn are the most common allergens. Grains must be cooked or processed to be digested by the dog. Well, I say that tongue in cheek because my dogs eat the raw wheat kernels from the horse hay that falls on the driveways here. They enjoy the crunchiness I guess! Mostly the grain kernels pass right through undigested but they must get some carbs from eating the raw grain because their weight is harder to control when they eat a lot of grain kernels!
Another issue with grains is that some grains bind certain minerals and prevent their assimilation. Grains, like carbs, are difficult to avoid in food, although today there are more “grain-free” foods available. However, many of these foods include other starches like potatoes and tapioca. Starches, like grains, must be cooked for a dog to assimilate them and they are less digestible than grains like rice and corn. By the way, rice is the most digestible of the common grains and is one reason why a “bland” diet (chicken broth and rice- with their respective protein and glucose sources) is often used to feed a dog with an upset digestive system.
I have had good success in managing my dogs’ weight (apart from the hay issue above!) with daily exercise and diets that minimize carbs and grain. Their diets consist of about 25% (by weight- possibly 40% by kilocalories of energy provided) high-quality, grain-free, low-carb kibble. Raw and cooked protein sources such as meat, green tripe, fish and chicken make up the remainder of my dogs’ diets.
The Puppies Are Almost "Grown"!
It is one of the most unimaginable things! I cannot believe tomorrow will be 8 weeks since our puppies were born! Where has the time gone? From blind little "moles" to "real dogs" in just eight weeks! Unbelievable!
In a couple more weeks most of them will have new homes and those people will be thrilled. I think the pups will be also as we have tried valiantly to find good homes and I think the pups are ready for "people bonding". But it is going to be pretty hard to see them go. The saving grace is that (hopefully) we will keep in touch and follow them throughout their lives while hearing about and enjoying all their adventures!
I have tried to socialize and acclimate them to a variety of different experiences. They have been such beautiful "blank slates" - ready for learning and such happy, willing students. What precious little gems they are!
When the dust settles I will have more "reflections" about this experience. For now I am amazed every day how they grow and how vital the role of the breeder is in their development. It would be easy to just let them sit around in a pen and when they are old enough, send them out into the world. But it is infinitely more important to them and their new families (and to me!) to do all I can to start their lives on a solid and loving footing. They didn't ask to be born.... I, as a breeder, made a decision to bring these puppies into the world and it is my obligation to make their existence as happy and productive as I can through the limited time I have with them. AND IT IS SO MUCH MORE FUN!!
In a couple more weeks most of them will have new homes and those people will be thrilled. I think the pups will be also as we have tried valiantly to find good homes and I think the pups are ready for "people bonding". But it is going to be pretty hard to see them go. The saving grace is that (hopefully) we will keep in touch and follow them throughout their lives while hearing about and enjoying all their adventures!
I have tried to socialize and acclimate them to a variety of different experiences. They have been such beautiful "blank slates" - ready for learning and such happy, willing students. What precious little gems they are!
When the dust settles I will have more "reflections" about this experience. For now I am amazed every day how they grow and how vital the role of the breeder is in their development. It would be easy to just let them sit around in a pen and when they are old enough, send them out into the world. But it is infinitely more important to them and their new families (and to me!) to do all I can to start their lives on a solid and loving footing. They didn't ask to be born.... I, as a breeder, made a decision to bring these puppies into the world and it is my obligation to make their existence as happy and productive as I can through the limited time I have with them. AND IT IS SO MUCH MORE FUN!!
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Where Have I Been?
Sorry if anyone has been wondering what has happened to my posting. We were blessed with 3 beautiful girl Border Terrier puppies in late July. My youngest girl "Ellie" presented these to us in a textbook easy whelping.
They are having a ball! Growing like weeds and now are in a big 6ft x 9ft play area where they can run and romp. They have a small teeter-totter to play on and a short section of PVC tunnel to investigate so they are budding Earthdogs and maybe we have an agility dog or two in there! They're eating mush and nursing some still from mom and have been learning to pee and poop on the papers in the back of their area. Later this week we will go outside! First time stepping on grass should be a treat to watch!
They are having a ball! Growing like weeds and now are in a big 6ft x 9ft play area where they can run and romp. They have a small teeter-totter to play on and a short section of PVC tunnel to investigate so they are budding Earthdogs and maybe we have an agility dog or two in there! They're eating mush and nursing some still from mom and have been learning to pee and poop on the papers in the back of their area. Later this week we will go outside! First time stepping on grass should be a treat to watch!
Their puppyhood here goes by so quickly. Pretty soon they will go off to their new homes (all are spoken for!) and we will be wondering what happened! In the meantime, we get to enjoy them and watch them learn and grow daily! I have to admit we have had it pretty easy this litter. Breeding animals is fraught with risks and disappointment sometimes, but litters like this one make up for all that and more!
Thursday, July 8, 2010
The Great Triangle
I was chatting the other day with a very nice couple about Border Terriers. They are hoping to adopt one soon having owned a BT previously. They were kind enough to complete a puppy application in much detail. And I realized as we talked that I knew a lot more about them than they did about me. I had wanted to meet them so I could evaluate them as a potential home for a puppy, but hopefully they were likely evaluating me as a breeder just as carefully.
I realized that I knew the breeders of my own dogs only superficially in most cases. We meet the breeder maybe over the telephone or via email, and maybe we are lucky enough to be referred to them. We have a few conversations, exchange a few pictures, answer their questionairres and maybe meet them for a few hours when we pick up the puppy, or before, if we live close by. But in both directions, it's a pretty basic acquaintance.
Do we need to know more? Not really. But we do share a dog's life that hopefully will be long and bring much joy to both sides. Our puppy homes shepard that little pup through all his life and we are the people they will turn to if they have questions or problems. They depend on our expertise in selecting breeding stock, on providing the basic socializing for the puppy, and for ensuring the initial health and disease prevention for the dog.
Some of us breeders believe that these puppy homes are part of an extended family of our dogs and ourselves. We love to hear how the dogs are doing, what they are learning and acheiving, and always enjoy seeing pictures, if not the actual dog itself. Some of us like to keep in touch while other breeders seem too pre-occupied and busy with the rest of their lives.
As a potential puppy home you need to be comfortable with how your dog's breeder treats the breeder-owner relationship. If you are a "sharer" of news and joy, but your breeder doesn't return emails or letters, etc.; perhaps you would have been happier with a more personable breeder. Much of the joy of living with a dog is sharing. Sharing activities with your dog brings much joy, and sharing this joy with others can be very important for some owners.
As breeders we need to realize that every potential puppy owner is as different as each of our puppies; and that some owners appreciate a stronger relationship than others. As a service to our potential puppy homes, we need to take a few minutes and get better acquainted with those who seek us out. We are all part of a great triangle- breeder, owner and dog. Through the dog we have been brought together, our paths have crossed and our lives somewhat intertwined. In some cases, we may discover a better friendship than we could have ever imagined. We might become partners, advisors, mentors, co-breeders, or more. It would be a shame to miss such an adventure.
I realized that I knew the breeders of my own dogs only superficially in most cases. We meet the breeder maybe over the telephone or via email, and maybe we are lucky enough to be referred to them. We have a few conversations, exchange a few pictures, answer their questionairres and maybe meet them for a few hours when we pick up the puppy, or before, if we live close by. But in both directions, it's a pretty basic acquaintance.
Do we need to know more? Not really. But we do share a dog's life that hopefully will be long and bring much joy to both sides. Our puppy homes shepard that little pup through all his life and we are the people they will turn to if they have questions or problems. They depend on our expertise in selecting breeding stock, on providing the basic socializing for the puppy, and for ensuring the initial health and disease prevention for the dog.
Some of us breeders believe that these puppy homes are part of an extended family of our dogs and ourselves. We love to hear how the dogs are doing, what they are learning and acheiving, and always enjoy seeing pictures, if not the actual dog itself. Some of us like to keep in touch while other breeders seem too pre-occupied and busy with the rest of their lives.
As a potential puppy home you need to be comfortable with how your dog's breeder treats the breeder-owner relationship. If you are a "sharer" of news and joy, but your breeder doesn't return emails or letters, etc.; perhaps you would have been happier with a more personable breeder. Much of the joy of living with a dog is sharing. Sharing activities with your dog brings much joy, and sharing this joy with others can be very important for some owners.
As breeders we need to realize that every potential puppy owner is as different as each of our puppies; and that some owners appreciate a stronger relationship than others. As a service to our potential puppy homes, we need to take a few minutes and get better acquainted with those who seek us out. We are all part of a great triangle- breeder, owner and dog. Through the dog we have been brought together, our paths have crossed and our lives somewhat intertwined. In some cases, we may discover a better friendship than we could have ever imagined. We might become partners, advisors, mentors, co-breeders, or more. It would be a shame to miss such an adventure.
Friday, June 25, 2010
The Position to Win
Sometimes it seems you and your dog try and try but still can't come out a winner or get the score you need to qualify. Ever wonder how some of the pro handlers and trainers seem to always win? Here's something I was discussing with a handler the other day.
The secret to winning or getting a qualifying score is to have your dog in the position to win every time you enter the ring. Every dog is different and every dog gains the skills, experience and emotional maturity to be a winner at different times. You just have to wait for the dog to get it together mentally or physically before they can win. But even if they are mentally, emotionally and physically capable of winning, you still must place them in the position to win.
What do I mean by this? It means that they must have the basic training and skills needed to be winner firmly entrenched in their minds and bodies. For example, in conformation, they must know how to trot on a loose lead, stack both free and by hand, be at ease on the judging table when being evaluated, and have learned that the show ring is a fun place to be. In earthdog, they must learn to drive through the darkness of a complex tunnel system to the quarry, must have developed the instinct to work the quarry aggressively and learn to use their nose as a guide to locating the quarry. In Rally they must know the basic commands, hand signals and movements and know that, no matter the distraction, their place is at the heel position or where you have told them to go. In all activities, they must have had the physical development, athletic conditioning and nutrition to remain competitive throughout the length of the competition.
When you have the skills taught, you need to remember the mental aspect of your sport. Mental conditioning is as vital as the physical. When all individual skills and training have been learned, you must tie them all together in your dog's mind like you are developing a dance routine for your sport. We go here and do this, next we go here and do that, etc. It becomes routine and dogs love routine! Finally you must anticipate, and train for, the unexpected as well as those things that are expected, but are not always the same. In conformation, you need to train for the "go round" at the head of the line, in the middle and as the last dog in line. You need to train the "down and back", the triangle and the "L" because any of these can be chosen by the judge. And you need to train for getting bumped, being in a tight line-up and having the dog in front of you go very slowly. Some of these skills are for you to learn and some for your dog, but all are necessary for you both, as a team, to master.
Once you have these elements down, you can start placing your dog in the position to win. Now you refine posture and gait, enhance presence, build more enthusiasm and develop speed (in those sports where speed is a requirement). But every time you enter the ring, you do the same basic things that you trained- the basic skills. You continuously place your dog in a position to win by having the skills down. When the dog is ready, when he / she is mentally and physically prime, then you will begin to win or score. But while you are waiting for the dog to mature in their bodies and their sport, you are developing them and constantly striving to place them in a position to be a winner.
Our dogs mature at their own pace. For some it's at nine months, for others two years, for some or in certain sports, it can be many years. It's our responsibility as trainers and handlers, every time we take them into the ring or to the test, to give them every opportunity to win so that when they are ready, they can win.
The secret to winning or getting a qualifying score is to have your dog in the position to win every time you enter the ring. Every dog is different and every dog gains the skills, experience and emotional maturity to be a winner at different times. You just have to wait for the dog to get it together mentally or physically before they can win. But even if they are mentally, emotionally and physically capable of winning, you still must place them in the position to win.
What do I mean by this? It means that they must have the basic training and skills needed to be winner firmly entrenched in their minds and bodies. For example, in conformation, they must know how to trot on a loose lead, stack both free and by hand, be at ease on the judging table when being evaluated, and have learned that the show ring is a fun place to be. In earthdog, they must learn to drive through the darkness of a complex tunnel system to the quarry, must have developed the instinct to work the quarry aggressively and learn to use their nose as a guide to locating the quarry. In Rally they must know the basic commands, hand signals and movements and know that, no matter the distraction, their place is at the heel position or where you have told them to go. In all activities, they must have had the physical development, athletic conditioning and nutrition to remain competitive throughout the length of the competition.
When you have the skills taught, you need to remember the mental aspect of your sport. Mental conditioning is as vital as the physical. When all individual skills and training have been learned, you must tie them all together in your dog's mind like you are developing a dance routine for your sport. We go here and do this, next we go here and do that, etc. It becomes routine and dogs love routine! Finally you must anticipate, and train for, the unexpected as well as those things that are expected, but are not always the same. In conformation, you need to train for the "go round" at the head of the line, in the middle and as the last dog in line. You need to train the "down and back", the triangle and the "L" because any of these can be chosen by the judge. And you need to train for getting bumped, being in a tight line-up and having the dog in front of you go very slowly. Some of these skills are for you to learn and some for your dog, but all are necessary for you both, as a team, to master.
Once you have these elements down, you can start placing your dog in the position to win. Now you refine posture and gait, enhance presence, build more enthusiasm and develop speed (in those sports where speed is a requirement). But every time you enter the ring, you do the same basic things that you trained- the basic skills. You continuously place your dog in a position to win by having the skills down. When the dog is ready, when he / she is mentally and physically prime, then you will begin to win or score. But while you are waiting for the dog to mature in their bodies and their sport, you are developing them and constantly striving to place them in a position to be a winner.
Our dogs mature at their own pace. For some it's at nine months, for others two years, for some or in certain sports, it can be many years. It's our responsibility as trainers and handlers, every time we take them into the ring or to the test, to give them every opportunity to win so that when they are ready, they can win.
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